Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Oudomxay


Although we spent little time in this sleepy mountainous town, we have fond memories of Oudomxay. When here, the Chinese influence is undeniable as is the beauty of the mountains backdrop.

We just stayed here for a day on our way to the secluded far North Province of Phongsali.

The Chinese food at a small, filthy restaurant in this town was quite possibly the best we've tried. Besides gorging on oily Chinese...
We had a great view of the city from our cheaper than cheap room.

We climbed a hill and visited a temple at the top of the hill watching the sun set behind the panorama of mountains.

Mmmm.... good ol' Oudomxay...

Alissa Fell Off An Elephant!!!


More on that one later...

Alms Giving In Luang Prabang





Since Laos is all about giving, we decided to wake up really early and do just that.
Due to the ultra high number of temples in Luang Prabang, you can't help but miss the majestically flowing bright orange robes of practicing Theravada monks. Really they are all over the place.
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No more stunning in the wee hours of the morning, at the crack of dawn, when all of the monks leave the temple grounds with bagging bowls in hand to make their daily alms round, just as the Buddha preached over 2500 years ago.
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The locals set up mats along the sidewalk and bring sticky rice and fruit to make their daily offering. And so we too made our way out onto the sidewalk looking for a place to purchase rice before sunrise. We purchased two 1/2 kilograms bags of steaming-fresh rice and scouted out the best place for our offering. We decided on the not so auspicious spot right beside the local grannies. Surely these folks know where you can get the biggest bang for your alms giving buck!
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Just in the instant of deciding on our spot, and at the very moment as the sun peaked into the horizon, the peaceful army of orange flooded into the streets. We scampered into position with sticky rice ready at our side. Then, led by a senior monk, a single file line of young novice monks marched towards us.
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With as much reverence as we could muster this early in the morning, we plunked our sticky rice into their begging bowls.
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Through this simple act of giving, we too were receiving. As the monks made their way back to the temples to continue their daily routines the sun filled the sky. We both felt a certain contentment as we started off our day.

Monday, February 23, 2009

Luang Prabang And Thoughts On Why People Love Laos








We took a bus to Luang Prabang and experienced our first taste of really wicked-twisty roads. The once capital city and royal city of Laos is only a small city of around 26 000 but has 31 temples in it. Because of the abundance of old royal charm and old temples, the whole city is UNSCO funded and protected.

In this city we became obsessed with socialist Laos' answer to Starbucks, a small artsy chain of cafe's called Joma (more on that later). While drinking some of the best coffee that we've ever tried (damn, Laos makes good coffee) we pondered the question "What makes Laos so damn good?" We ran into so many people who claimed that Laos is the best place to travel.

Sure Laos has great beer. Beer Lao has won acclaim and awards worldwide. Now that's just the obvious!

It also has quite possibly the best coffee in the world. Planted by the French in the mid-to-early 1900s, it was once called "the Champagne of Coffee". But, not all people we ran into were coffee connoisseurs.

Laos' raw, untouched nature makes it extraordinarily attractive. It has more uninhabited, uncultivated land than any Southeast Asian country. It doesn't matter where you go in Laos, vast swaths of nature comes with it. This is definitely one of its charms.

Laos definitely has good food, although most is heavily influenced by it's neighbours. To quote one beefy Canadian man we meet on our travels "Man, the only reason I came to Laos was to pig out on BBQ... Like, why did you guys come to Laos?" Alissa, a bit caught off guard, replied, "Ummm... I think Matt likes hiking, and I guess I like bug spray." Do we even need to elaborate further- the food is great, the bugs are bad.

Laos' people are truly a kind-hearted bunch. Not once have we been scammed while traveling Laos (Ok in the South someone was trying to sell us inflated bus tickets but they only jacked the price a few dollars). We seem to still be on our guard from Vietnam. There's really no reason to be on defence though, the Laos people are calm, helpful, patient, and accommodating. They have good, kind souls. People love Laos people, this much is true.

But, sipping on black Laos Arabic Roast, we came to an understanding, an understanding that most travelers don't reach...

When travelling in Laos you willingly or unwillingly help the country and the people in it. Everything you buy, every tour you take, every village you visit, every coffee you drink, usually a large portion of the proceeds go to helping communities directly or indirectly supporting organizations that do so. There is no way you can travel Laos without making a positive contribution.

No matter how you look at it, "Charity Case Laos" or "Feel Good Laos", you walk away making a difference, and that feels good.

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Vientiane


Here are some shots from the capital city of Laos, Vientiane. We fell in love with this city instanty. It's happy, laid back people, and it's no hastle attitude makes this city feel like home. The population is about the size of Regina. We loved it so much that we spent four days enjoying this beautiful city.

Here are some of the sights we saw here...


Notes From Our Twentysome Hour Bus Journey From Vietnam Into Laos


* Introductory note: We have two options on getting to Laos from Vietnam. A: The convenient, expensive route. We could go to Hanoi and fly in. B: The budget travelers option. We could take a series of busses that would eventually take us to the capital city of Laos. Since we have the time, we both decided that option B suits us mainly because we get to enjoy the wondrous scenery on the way in. This decision goes against all the advice we have heard from other travelers. There are more than a few horror stories about this option. We risk it.

January 15th 1:30 PM

Our bus was supposed to pick us up by now. There is no sign of it. This is only the beginning.

2:00 PM

We finally get picked up not by our bus but by some sketchy little scuttle bus.

2:45 PM

I think we've drove around this city 4 times now in this shitty little van. We both wonder when we will leave Hoi An.

2:50 PM

They take our tickets and give us new tickets before they drop us onto a big sleeper bus.
Finally we depart Hoi An in a sleeper bus (a bus with seats that are reclined like a lazyboy... ah maybe more like those reclining beach chairs). We we're told that we would be in a seated bus until our transfer to a sleeper bus in Hue at 6:00 PM. Things were better than expected.

3:30 PM

Somebody on the bus farted.

4:00 PM

An unnerving grinding sound is coming from the rear drivers side. That can't be good!

4:30 PM

The bus pulls over into a fix-it-shop located in a small town in the middle of nowhere. Everybody in town takes a look at the problem.

4:45 PM

The rear wheel is completely removed as the whole town gathers around the wheel taking in the unforeseen excitement. We go outside and play with the local children most of which has probably never seen a foreginer before. They are amazed.

5:30 PM

Alissa admits to farting a few hours ago.

5:35PM

The wheel is back on and we're ready to go!

7:00 PM

We arive in Hue. But it seems our connecting bus has already left!

7:10 PM

The workers from the bus company look like they don't know what the fuck they are doing. After an argument between two of the bus workers, one of them approaches us. He claims that we only purchased sitting seats and tells us that we must go to the sitting seats for the remainder of the trip. We tell him that we purchased sleeper tickets and he says that our tickets don't say that. We explain that a man from his bus company took our original tickets which have 'sleeper' written on them and replaced then with these tickets that have 'your screwed' written in invisible ink on them. We tell him, " Do what you want but we're not moving." He gives up, we keep our sleeper seats, and the bus heads to Vinh, Vietnam.

7:30 PM

Alissa admits that it actually wasn't a fart but a quief.

8:30 PM

The bus stops at some small town and we eat the shittiest pho (Vietnamese noodles) we've eaten yet.

9:00 PM

We're on the road again ... We fall asleep.

January 16th Maybe 3:00 AM but don't know for sure.

The bus rouses us from our sleeper-seat slumber. A stern voice urges us with a persistent call of "hurry up, hurry up". Barely awake, we gather our bags and stumble out of the bys only to be enthusiastically greeted by a man, who must be Laos. While Matthew loads the bags into the luggage stored beneath the bus, Alissa ventures into the bus to check out our seats. She is greeted by a bys full of horney Laos men hooting and hollering at the Victoria Secret T.V. Special on the T.V. at the front of the bus (the equivalent to hard core porn in ultra-conservative Laos) and all to the back drop of techno beats blaring from large subwoofers. The excitement seems to peek as these worked up Laos men seem to think that the T.V. special has come to life as Alissa struts down the main aisle in her Lululemon. Stray hands reached for Alissa's bottom, but the party grinds to a silent halt as Matthew boards. The Horney men instantly turned to bashful gentlemen with eyes on the floor as the mannered men made room for the two of us to sit together. The techno beats thumped loader than ever as the bus took off into the dark mountainous distance. As we comfortably nod off to Jessica Simpson in the latest, skimpiest style.

Maybe 4:00 AM but again, we don't really know.

We wake up to complete darkness. No music, no Victoria Secret, just complete darkness and silence. The bus is pulled over into the ditch and even the bus driver is snoring.

5:30 AM

The bus starts up again and we are off into the darkness once more. We doze off.

6:30 AM

The bus wakes us once more as it pulls into the Vietnam boarder check point just as the sun seems to lighten the sky behind jagged shadowed mountains. We are escorted off the 'party bus' and into Vietnamese immigration. Inside are what seems to be a mob of confused travelers with no line to be seen as people hold their passports tightly while waving dollar bills. It's mass confusion in Vietnam immigration!

7:30 AM

After one hour of pushing into line and $2.00 USD of bribes, we finally make our way out of Vietnam and into Laos. The walk from Vietnam immigration to Laos was one of the most beautiful sights we have witnessed as waterfalls careened over rocky streams so high up in the mountains that it gives us a chill.

7:40 AM

We arrived at the laid back, candle lit immigration office in Laos. The pushy Vietnamese crowd gave way to peace & love while everyone patiently waited in-line, in the solace of cast shadows. We checked out the visa fee list, the list that shows what countries must pay to enter we groined at the fact that Canadians had to pay the highest fee. Two women behind us started laughing and joking because they're fee was only a fraction of what we had to pay. They commented that they only married their Mexican husbands so they could travel cheaply!

8:30 AM

We find our bus and hop on hopping it will be an hour or two till we hit the capital. Time seems to take a backseat to scenery. We witness large black stone, jagged topped, monolithic mountains that seem to jut out of the surrounding forest only to have their peeks completely snapped off. We both agree, that this is more like a scene from 'Jurrasic Park' then something we expected to see in Laos.

1:00 PM

Our bus pulls over for some lunch. We had our first 'Beer Lao' and both agree that it's the best damn beer we have ever had. The food is also good.

1:30 PM

Our bus is off again.


3:00 PM

We finally arrive in the capital city of Laos, Vientiane. After finding a guesthouse, we watch the sunset on the Mekong with Beer Lao and some of Laos famous Papaya Salad. This single trip has been the longest we have ever had. As the sun reflects pinks and oranges over the quite Mekong we smile and are happy to be in Lao.